Gear list, water stops, and tips for SCAR runners at the bottom!
Every blog write-up regarding SCAR starts with the compulsory explanation of SCAR. I suppose this is for family and friends that might read about your adventure. Let's face it, your family and friends that don't know about SCAR are not going to read your blog post. If they do, explaining SCAR to someone who doesn't run ultras is like explaining the concept of building a house to a child who plays with Lincoln Logs. When the concept gets broken down to the ultimate goal being to cover 72 miles in 24 hours, the math begins. Uncle Joey will state, "Hey, that's just a 20-minute mile. I do 18 minute miles when walking at the mall." And there you'll have it. Your big goal and, ultimately, accomplishment will be nothing more than a mall walk.
With that being said... SCAR is a 70+ mile traverse of the Appalachian Trail through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park with ~40,000 feet of elevation change just to keep you honest. It is a true right of passage for a southeast ultrarunner. You can complete SCAR unsupported (carry all food and gear and filter all your water) or go supported with crew points at mile ~31 and ~40 miles. You can go either northbound or southbound. I figure if you're going to be a bear, be a grizzly. So, it was going to be a solo, unsupported northbound attempt with the goal of sub-24 hours. There aren't any grizzlies in the Smokies, and I don't believe bears follow any south to north migratory patterns through the park so the analogy doesn't work well. But here we are. The decision to go solo, unsupported was the first of many bad decisions for this particular adventure.
For a 20-24 hour run, you'll need ~5,000 calories, appropriate clothing, and the ability to carry enough water to get you between water stops. Outside of that, every other piece of gear is optional until it isn't optional and you really need it. Ultimately, you have to make tough decisions on gear to be left out of your pack to cut on weight and to save room. I eschewed my Smartwool 250 thermal shirt and tights for a Smartwool 150 long-sleeve shirt. To ensure I could focus on nutrition and hydration, I also chose to forego trekking poles. These would be key mistakes that would cost me time and comfort as the day progressed.
The weather was variable with the temperatures set for 60F/37F on Saturday at low elevation (1,821 feet) and 37F/22F with 20 mph winds at high elevation (6,641 feet). The day started with a 4am wake-up call with my wife agreeing to drive me the 3 hours to Fontana Dam. As is often the case, you are excited until you aren't. Then it becomes a grind. When I set out at 8am on Saturday at 4/17/2021, it was 44F. That would be the warmest temperature I would see for the duration of SCAR.
The first 15 miles were well groomed trails for the Appalachian Trail. I felt smooth and quite comfortable leading up to Spence Field. The thought of sub-20 hours crossed my mind, but I knew the day didn't really start until Spence Field when the trail becomes more technical. You damn well better feel great through the first 15 miles of a 70+ mile run. If not, you're going to have some real problems out there. The weather had called for scattered showers, but it was scattered sleet instead! The first water filtration break came at Derrick Knob. I utilized a Katadyn BeFree filter which worked well for my purposes. I read that some brave souls drink straight from the rusty pipes or PVC pipes coming from the springs, but I wanted to die from hypothermia, falling off the side of a cliff, wild hog attack, or bear attack. Giardia is simply not a sexy way to go.
The approach to Clingmans Dome started smoothly. Once I neared the top, the first round of nausea began. I slowed down, drank, took electrolytes, and stayed calm. I switched from Gu Chews to more solid foods hoping this would solve the problem. Unfortunately, switching to trail mix sent the problem into overdrive. We've all vomited during an ultra. However, vomiting chunks of nuts and M&Ms through the nose was a new experience for me. I was glad that I got to wait until a group of tourists going for a day hike were coming around a turn to start that process. I hope it was as good for them as it was for me.
The descent off Clingmans is zero fun. Even fresh, it's zero fun. It's a technical, rock, rooty mess. And right when you get into the groove of running it, you start some bullshit climb to Mt Collins. By the time I rolled my not so happy ass into Newfound gap, I had vomited twice and felt awful. I sent a text to the wife and gave a quick social media post noting how awful I felt before putting the phone back into airplane mode. We've all been in bad spots before. There's usually a rebound if you just take your time, walk, and continue to try to eat and drink. Thus, I trudged onward.
After trekking to Icewater Springs Shelter, it was clear that I was going to have a slow, painful, and miserable evening. I considered turning around and trekking the 3-4 miles back to Newfound Gap. I would certainly run into the many out of shape day hikers that lacked flashlights or headlamps returning to their car from hiking to Charlies Bunion. I could work a deal where I would trade my headlamp light so they could negotiate the technical trail for a ride back to Gatlinburg. But then I'd have to explain to a stranger what I was doing, and they'd tell me about how they walk in the mall every evening. I had gotten myself into this mess, so I knew I had to figure out how to get myself out it.
There isn't much to say about the last 25 miles of SCAR. It was dark. I was miserably cold and would shake uncontrollably with any stoppage. The views would have been incredible, but all that could be seen were the distant lights of the cities. I trudged on but desperately wanted to stop. I considered bail out options with even the thought of cutting 5-7 miles off sounding tempting. I would like to say that what kept me going was how bad I wanted it. Instead, it was how badly I didn't want to face this challenge again. I went the last 25 miles of SCAR without eating and the last 15 miles of SCAR without drinking. My final attempt to eat and drink came when the hallucinations were simply getting the best of me near the top of Mt Cammerer. While I vomited again with the attempt, it did snap me out of the hallucinations. WINNING!
This leads me to a key mistake I made before the run even started. I opted for more food capacity versus cold weather clothing and trekking poles. If anything had gone wrong, I would have been in serious trouble. With spotty cell reception and no hikers/runners at night, things could have gone sideways in a hurry. Either a larger pack or a Naked Running Band would have provided all the extra space I needed to have the appropriate gear. Silly mistake trying to shave a few extra ounces could have cost me a finish, my life, or put someone else's life in danger. It's simply inexcusable on my part.
I knew the last 15 miles of SCAR all to well. I run them frequently during training runs. However, it felt like a foreign land when tired and at night. I was certain I was lost after Snake Den Ridge and doubled back to the trailhead to ensure I was on the AT. I still can't understand how a trail I knew so well could seem so different. On the same note, I saw lots of interesting wildlife. Most notably was a 6 foot tall king cobra, lion, orangutan, and several cows. Or I was hallucinating. When I happened upon two hikers going up to Mt Cammerer to see sunrise around Chestnut Branch Trail, I asked them if they were real. They laughed and asked if I was ok. At that point, I didn't have a response other than a mumble of something incoherent. Finally, I reach Davenport Gap Shelter and knew I was a mile away. I wanted to run it in, but my legs couldn't muster a downhill 20-minute mile. Uncle Joey would have beat me in a mall walking race at this point. I strolled into Davenport Gap in a half-stupor with my wife waiting to pick me up. I'm not sure I made much sense when attempting to change out of clothes or getting into the car, but I was certainly glad to be done.
With so many challenges like this, you swear you'll never do it again. 48 hours later, I'm certain I'll never do another solo, unsupported run of SCAR. I might consider it with friends and a crew or joining someone for the last half. This was simply harder day than I anticipated. I'm certain the inability to eat and drink for the last half played into it. I'm not sure what transpired to cause that reaction, but I was glad to overcome it to finish. In the words of Yvon Chouinard, "It's not an adventure until something goes wrong." It was certainly an adventure.
Strava (because it didn't happenif it isn't on Strava): https://strava.app.link/bdrRc0DmAfb
Below is my gear list and tips for first timers:
Backpack: Salomon ADV Skin 12
Shoes: Hoka One One Evo Speedgoat
Shorts/Shirt: Saucony Compression Shorts & Gore Running Wear Half-Zip T-shirt
Socks: Drymax 1/4 Crew Lite Trail Socks
Extra Gear in Backpack:
-Smartwool Merino 150 Thermal Baselayer with Hood
-North Face Flight Series Jacket
-Montane Minimus Stretch Ultra Jacket (waterproof/windproof)
-Montane Minimus Pants (waterproof/windproof)
-Montane Switch Gloves with Pull-Out Mitt
-Raidlight MP Overmitts (waterproof/windproof)
-Buff
Water Filtration:
-Katadyn BeFree 0.6L
-Backup chemical treatment: Aquamira Water Treatment Drops
Headlamp:
-Petzl Nao
Backup Light:
-Fenix LD22
SOL Emergency Bivvy
Miscellaneous:
-Salt tablets
-Toilet paper
-Drugs: Imodium, Ibuprofen, Tums
-Cellphone
-ID & insurance: Drivers license, insurance card, credit card, and enough cash to pay for a shuttle from Newfound Gap to Gatlinburg if things go wrong
Food: 5,000 calories of trail mix, Kind bars, Gu Chews, and wraps
Water: 2 x 500 mL soft flasks, 1.5 L bladder
Tips for first time SCAR runners:
1.) Underestimate your fitness and overestimate the difficulty of the course. You are not as in shape as you think you are and the course is harder and more technical than you think.
2.) It only takes an average of 20 minute miles to cover SCAR sub-24. (72 miles x 20 minutes = 1440 minutes/24 hours). To break 24 hours, I think you have to run, but not too fast and not too often. I suggest trying to do the downhills and flats in 14-minute pace and uphills in 22 minute pace. That provides an average pace of 18 minute miles. That gives ~2 hours and 20 minutes of built-in time. You'll need ~1 hour for water stops and fidgeting with gear. 20 minutes for crying on a rock and re-evaluating your life choices that led you to choose this stupid course of action. 1 hour buffer for shit just simply going wrong or a slow second half.
3.) Simply keep moving. It's tough. There are going to be hard miles. If I was not filtering water, I kept moving. I combined adding clothing layers, putting a headlamp on, and fidgeting with gear with my water filtration stops to minimize down time with the exception of one stop around midnight for an added base layer. Try to avoid crying while sitting on a rock. Just keep moving forward. It only takes 20-minute miles to go sub-24.
2.) Train with a fully loaded backpack. If you only train with the pack you typically carry for a 30 mile long run, SCAR is going to be a rude awakening.
3.) Take a more warm weather gear than you think you will need. I was miserably cold Saturday night/Sunday morning. If anything had gone wrong, I would have been in real trouble and dealing with hypothermia. Trying to save weight and room in order to store more food, I opted for a 150 weight merino wool shirt instead of 250 weight and no tights. In terms of comfort and safety, this was one of my biggest mistakes.
4.) Take your trekking poles. In order to ensure I kept on my hydration and nutrition, I opted to not take trekking poles. I would have given my best friend's left kidney for them over the last 30 miles. I highly recommend the Leki Micro Trail series (no financial interest). The trigger shark gloves keep you from having straps to deal with and are simple to slip on/off.
5.) Treat this as a 100-miler. Taper. Train specifically for SCAR. I had simply used this as a training run with an easy week leading up to SCAR.
6.) Train on the course. Spend a Saturday running from Fontana Dam to Newfound Gap and another Saturday from Newfound Gap to Davenport Gap to know the course. It will make a difference in your pacing and decision making.
7.) I would consider the best time of year for attempting SCAR to be early May. Spring showers should still have water plentiful. The weather should still be cool but not too hot. If you can give yourself a one-week window to get the job done, it would increase your odds of success considerably. Thursday or Sunday would have been a much better weather window starting Saturday for me.
8.) I truly believe Southbound is an easier option. Start early in the morning to with plans to reach Mt Cammerer at sunrise. If going sub-24, You'll clear most of the technical sections in the daylight and only have a brief stay at 5,000 feet at night leading to less cold weather. Having a crew obviously makes the whole thing easier (but not easy).
9.) Water stops that I utilized:
-Derrick Knob shelter (I'd likely skip this one and go to Double Springs next time if under the same weather conditions)
-Double Springs shelter
-Small spring halfway between Clingmans Dome an Newfound Gap. The water flows out between a rock onto the trail.
-Icewater Springs Shelter
-Tricorner Knob (could be utilized but I chose not to due to poor intake of water)
